No battery needed and has a zero adjustment in the front of shoe at the bottom. Made by Walz in Japan. The one I have is pretty sensitive and in excellent conditions.
About this meter, the only thing I do not like is its 'foot', made of plastic. I doubt its durability.
16.25
Just been given one of these could you explain how it works. As I am not sure how what to align to the needle?
ReplyDeleteMaybe you worked it out after 2yrs, but in case not:
ReplyDeleteThere are two modes - high light and low light - if you look on the cover at the front there is a blue dot facing up when its closed and a red dot facing up when open. This is the colour code used on the calculator.
First set you film speed (ASA) by rotating the centre part of the 'calculator' until you ASA shows in the window marked ASA.
Then point the meter at the scene of interest, and rotate the outer dial until the blue or red arrow lines up with where the needle is - line up as if following the stripes, rather than the needle itself as the needle doesn't move in fixed steps per EV. Choose the red or blue arrow depending on whether the flap is open or not (red for low light, flap open)
Now read any combination of speed/fstop indicated around the dial - if you want 1/60th then whichever f stop lines up with 1/60 is the one to choose. All displayed combinations are valid.
You can also read EV if you want (not sure why) - To do this line up the EV red strip on the inner dial with either the blue or red stripe on the outer dial by rotating the outer dial. Now you can read EV from the needle position against the numbers on the outer dial.
One nice thing is that to account for filter factors, just move the asa dial around the right number of stops, and the meter can work as normal.
I would add that accuracy at low light levels is dubious, so make sure you open the door if you can without end-stopping the meter.